The islands of the lagoon (Thursday 22nd August 2013)

Up early for the first breakfast shift today as we had a 9:30am appointment down at the water's edge near St. Mark's square. We set off at a good pace, the pedestrian traffic was light (which was really pleasant) but we still took a good 45 minutes to get to our destination. OK, we did stop a few times to get money from the ATM and try on a some hats. We arrived at the launching place for the tour of the islands with 15 minutes to spare. It seems strange, but traveling from A to B in Italy always takes longer than one might think.

We sat at the blunt end of the boat for the first leg to the island on Murano. This people of Murano make a living creating and selling the famous Venetian glass. The tour included a glass-blowing exhibition which we saw a little bit of. Very skilled craftsmen. The majority of the short time spent on the island was in the glass-blower's shop – of course. Ah, it took me back to our first guided bus tour of Europe way back in 1986. The glass pieces in the show were magnificent works of art. It was worth the money of the tour just to see it. Of course, the prices were a work of art also. Given a spare 5 or 10 thousand I might have arranged for a few pieces to be shipped back home.

We took a possie at the pointy end of the boat for the next leg to Burano. It was so nice to feel the warm breeze and the spray. Burano is known for its lace. We skirted the lace making presentation and found a bar near the main piazza for a coffee instead. The 35 minutes on the island was just long enough to down an espresso, take some photos and stroll back to the boat. Just ten minutes away was the third island, Torcello. This island has a grand population of eleven. In it's hey-dey in the late first and early second millenium it was a greater power than Venice and had a population of 10,000. But the waters near the island turned into a swamp, boats couldn't get, trade fell way and the mossie population increased bringing malaria with it. So the people left and the island has been more or less deserted ever since.

We arrived back in Venice just after 2:00pm. It was hot and very crowded. We walked back through St. Mark's square, picked up some lunch at a deli and found a shady tree in the next piazza. After the brief rest we set off for the Church of St. Gregorio to pay our respects to my patron saint. We turned left over the Accademia bridge at the Grand Canal instead of right as we had usually done and in an instant Venice was a different place. St. Gregorio's is on a point more or less across the GC from St. Mark's square. It's room-mate is Chiesa Della Salute, a massive Baroque cathedral, which features in many photographs, postcards and artwork of Venice. Anyway, all of a sudden the streets became much quieter, the people almost sparse in comparison to the main tourist drag. The shops mostly sold high value, quality merchandise, there were no hawkers. Unfortunately, my church was closed and the other was under-going major renovation. We were allowed into the latter but there was not a lot to see inside.

Outside the cathedral is a water-bus stop on the Grand Canal. We tried to work-out how one bought a ticket but there was no information. We asked a Pom who advised we could buy a ticket on board so we waited for the next boat to Piazzale Roma and hopped on. It was jam-packed with tourists. We made our way outside to the rear of the boat to get a breeze. No seats, of course. Slowly the boat made its way from stop to stop up the Grand Canal. No one got off. It was a really good perspective to see the city from the Canal. The Canal was buzzing with boats of all shapes and sizes going every which way. Slow Gondola's, public transport, fast, sleek taxi boats, barges carrying produce and porters delivering suitcases to hotels. It was hot and crowded and murder in the knees but well worth all the dis-comfort.

We alighted at the stop adjacent to the Venice train station and found the nearest bar on the water-side for a drink. We sat back and watched the traffic going up and down the Grand Canal for a good thirty minutes. On the skyline we spied the dome of a church so we crossed the Grand Canal in search of it. Not too far away we found the Church of St. Jerimiah. The church is grand in size and modest in its internal fittings but a very nice, multi-domed church nevertheless. St. Jerimiah has a very important guest staying with him who really steals his thunder actually. St. Lucy (aka Santa Lucia) has a special wing of the church dedicated to her where she lies in her glass-domed coffin. I think it is the real deal. He head wears a metal mask but her gnarled and withered hands and feet are exposed. That is, they are not covered in cloth like the rest of her body is. You can get behind the coffin right up next to it, you know, like six inches from her body. Really weird. Santa Lucia was virgin martyr of the 4^th century. Her remains have been shipped all over the place over the last 1800 years landing in Venice in 1860.

The 26^th Annual Street Musicians competition is on in Venice. We stopped to listed to a South American group playing Latin music, a trio playing ancient European instruments and a chap playing the lute. He got the money 'cos he sounded best and I'd never seen a lute played before. We found a nearby restaurant for dinner and walked back with a gelati to the hotel. I think we've done a good job on Venice over the last two and a half days so tomorrow we move on Stresa in the lake district north of Milan.