Monday 15 July 2013

Rock-hopping in the Corbieres (Monday 15th July 2013)

The area just south of Talairan is famous for its castle ruins. The line of castles along the ridges were once on the border between Aragon (later Spain) so were built to protect France from attack. They also sheltered the Cathars, a breakaway group from the Catholic church who flourished for a short while and then were wiped out when the Church finally caught up with them. We chose to go to the best preserved one called Chateau de Peyrepertuse. The trouble with choosing this one was that it was the highest of all, sitting atop a rocky ridge 800m high. We drove through winding, narrow roads from Talairan, through small villages ever increasing in altitude until we got to the base of the castle. It was then a grueling 700m walk (in 30+ degrees) over rocky terrain to get to the base of the castle walls... and then the steps started!!




The castle has been around for probably more than a thousand years. It commands a magnificent view of the valley north towards France, from where we came and south towards the Pyrenees and Spain. It is considered to the most impregnable fortress in the defensive line and I can understand that. Why anyone would to go to the trouble of attacking it is beyond me! How is was built up there is further beyond me. I dips me lid to the engineers, the artisans and the workers who made it happen.

The ruins are indeed very well preserved. It is easy to picture how life might have been for the garrisons stationed there. The highlight was the church from which the whole thing started with a history going back to the times of the Roman Empire.

We descended to the village below, Duilhac, for a pleasant lunch at a roadside cafe amongst terraces and shady trees. We then started the long and winding trek back home. Thank God the GPS chose the fastest route! Two hours later we hit Talairan. Along the way we spent some time following a nice, little stream. I was concentrating on missing the oncoming traffic so couldn't see much of it. Eventually I found a wayside stop big enough for the Clio and pulled over for a look. I poked my head over the stone wall and straightaway spotted at least a dozen trout feeding in the stream way below. Arrrgghhh! The things you see when you don't have your rod!

We drove through Talairan to Lazignan, a larger town to the north, to go to the supermarket. The town even has a McDonalds, so, you the picture! We stocked up for the next couple of days, including some local Corbieres wine (which I have just finished with Emily's help, yum), and headed home. We unloaded the car and headed for the Bar. PC was there drinking by himself, so we joined him. Unfortunately, Kaye had been called home to Melbourne to help her ailing mother. We enjoyed a few drinks together and then went home where Emily cooked a lovely spaghetti bolognese for tea. Tomorrow we are off to the beach.

3 comments:

  1. Trust you to be the one who spots the Trout, Greg!! Keep your writing coming, the first thing I do in the morning is turn the computer on to see where "we" have been!! :) Which beach are we going to tomorrow?? xxx

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  2. Spectacular photos from the castle Greg, and looking back now it was worth it and lots of fun! You paint a very good picture with your words (the photos help too) so I can keep my envy levels high!
    I trust that Kerry is quite understanding about your latest (?) love affair (the car rather than the holiday!). Driving through the country roads and villages sounds idyllic.
    Please give my regards to Peter.
    Look forward to the next installment.

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  3. What a stunningly beautiful view (including Emily ;-)) from the castle. A tough trek, but obviiusly worth it. I agree, your posts are fantastic, and I look forward to them each day. xxx

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